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Another load of 8x10 film developed, this time I used 2l of solution for 4x 8x10 sheets. Using my paterson top as a makeshift funnel (with blu-tack as a seal) as the supplied one was too small. A coffee temperature probe is useful to keep track of temp easily. The results look good with 510 Pyro at 1:100 with HP5+. Not too expensive on chems if you use high dilution chemicals. I must give Rodinal a try sometime.
 

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jhotopf said:
Another load of 8x10 film developed, this time I used 2l of solution for 4x 8x10 sheets. Using my paterson top as a makeshift funnel (with blu-tack as a seal) as the supplied one was too small. A coffee temperature probe is useful to keep track of temp easily. The results look good with 510 Pyro at 1:100 with HP5+. Not too expensive on chems if you use high dilution chemicals. I must give Rodinal a try sometime.
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That’s smart. I must address my developing tank for 4x5. I’m wasting to much developer using the mod54
 
Soulstar89 said:
That’s smart. I must address my developing tank for 4x5. I’m wasting to much developer using the mod54
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I got on well with the MOD54. Remember, the 1 litre of chemistry will have enough power to develop more than just 6 sheets.
 
Nas said:
I got on well with the MOD54. Remember, the 1 litre of chemistry will have enough power to develop more than just 6 sheets.
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Oh so you could reuse the 1 litre solution for say another 6 sheets?
 
Soulstar89 said:
Oh wow I never realised. Would you have to adjust your development time as developer stock has been used?
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Personally I wouldn't but you can if you want. 12 sheets is the equivalent film area of 3 rolls of film and you'd easily be able to develop 3 rolls of 35mm in 1 litre of developer. For this to work I'd mix developer from concentrate like HC110 for example. Not diluted stock like ID-11 which is designed for one shot.
 
Nas said:
Personally I wouldn't but you can if you want. 12 sheets is the equivalent film area of 3 rolls of film and you'd easily be able to develop 3 rolls of 35mm in 1 litre of developer. For this to work I'd mix developer from concentrate like HC110 for example. Not diluted stock like ID-11 which is designed for one shot.
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i've so much to learn. thanks nas. TBH im not sure i would try it myself also lol. sheet film isn't cheap.
 
Soulstar89 said:
i've so much to learn. thanks nas. TBH im not sure i would try it myself also lol. sheet film isn't cheap.
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You're in the right place to learn. Tons of knowledge amongst us. Just keep asking the questions :)
 
Marley's Ghost said:
I just started using my Stearman 10x8 daylight tray to four 4x5s at the same time - I got it as it can do two 5x7 or a single 10x8 ... one of the most practical designs out there ... basically a light trapped dev tray with dividers. Works a treat with 500ml of chemicals and no scratching.
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I bought the stearman 810 to do the same ...but quickly led to buying the 10x8 camera..lol. They are very effective and so far consistent for 7x5 and 10x8
 
I'm successfully using the tank to develop 4 10x8 at a time, and out of about 30 sheets so far this year I've had no total failures and one case of some chemical drag on a sky, which is probably a better than success rate than using trays in total darkness.
You need to have your wits about you though, the tank uses 1800ml of chemicals which is heavy one handed, pouring with one and holding the tank at 30º with the other.
It takes 30-40 secs to get the chemicals in and out of the tank but accommodating for that is not too hard.
I've also managed to develop 16 5x4's in one go, which worked well and was a relief to do all at once. I had one piece with some chemical drag and might try and figure out why. I will be trying 5x7 C41 in it next...
I wouldn't want to process without a 4-5 mins pre-soak
keen to know others experiences.
 
I always pre-soak to bring the tank and film up to temperature and hydrate the emulsion for even uptake of developer, however the reason I think it's important with the Zebra 10x8 tank, is that in a tray you have almost instant or within a few seconds immersion. With smaller format say 5x4 in a paterson tank with a Mod54 reel it probably takes 10-15 seconds to fill the tank and submerge the negative, but in the Zebra tank its more like 30-40 seconds to fill the tank and therefore there's greater possibility of uneven or inconsistent development due to uneven absorption.
 
I think the Stearman advises the pre soak as helping the wet sheets stay at the bottom of the tray when the dev is poured in , so less risk of floating , for prints I was in the habit of putting the paper in the dev emulsion side down and then immediately flipping the paper , it usually floated till flipped.
 
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