How do you increase contrast when photographing trees, trunks, logs etc

[thronobulax]

When I did my Zone System testing initially back in the 1980s I had switched from FP4 to Agfapan AP100 with Tmax 100 as a back up, and also Tmax 400 for handheld MF work.

I found I had to rate the 2 Tmax films at half box speed, this matched two John Sexton article in some US Darkroom Techniques magazines I was given a few months later. I always shot Agfapan AP100, and later APX100 at box speed for normal developments.

Around 20 years ago I switched to Ilford Dela 100 & 400, & HP5 for hand held LF because getting Tmax films (or any Kodak B&W film) was near impossible while living abroad. Ilford & Foma films were easy to get, I found the same on a trip to Chile & Peru

I've written before I had to do my Foma effective film speed & development time times tests visually, as I processed my films in our bathroom, and had no access to a darkroom, At the time Foma 120 films were on a bluish base but visual comparisons to Tmax & Delta 100 negatives worked well, when I did print the Foma films back in the UK it was the same contrast settings as my other films.

With both Fomapan 100 & 200 I shoot at half box speed and also develop at about 75% of the times I use for other films.

Ian

The challenge here is that each of us see shadow placement somewhat differently. Assuming substantially correct meters, shutters, thermometers, etc., one person may choose less shadow detail (effectively a higher EI) than another for a given scene.

In some degree, this is why I abandoned testing every new thing to death. Each of us have our own creative ideas and I think it better (these days) to start with a known working point and evolve from their to mach our own opinions about shadows and highlights.