First time with Pyrocat HD

[Barney]

Crown Graphic 4x5, 135mm Optar
HP 5+ at box developed in homemade Pyrocat HD, 1+1 for 14 minutes @ 20, Regular Ilford agitation.



Naturally formed limestone rock with fissures and Hawthorn tree bent by the wind until sheltered behind the rock.

 

[Ian Grant]

A huge difference to the 510 negatives/scans, full of detail. Personally I'd increase the contrast very slightly.

A major step change.

Ian

 

[Barney]

Yes Ian your right and its thanks to your suggestion and recommendation that I adopted it

I deliberately went to the low contrast end of the spectrum and it worked as anticipated, my intention is to up the time to 15 and then 16 until I get the right contrast, for me, with HP5+, although I did anticipate more adjacency effects.

I miss the 510 though, in using only one 100ml bottle I gained the confidence to increase temperature and reduce time, increase/reduce the development time for zone manipulation, I found it very easy to manipulate and, most importantly, consistent.

I have bought some Pyrogallol just in case I didn't find the Pyrocat HD as "adjustable".

But after the first test run, I am impressed and now sure that I will stick with it a while and get the hang of it eventually.

 

[vvanwalt]

At Ian's recommendation I recently tried 4 frames in Pyrocat HD: The pre-mixed version by Bellini. I have to admit that the results are encouraging. As a long time user of Perceptol, the pyro is certainly easier to mix and the long shelf life a bonus.

I can't say for sure that I can see a vast improvement over Perceptol and the speed loss is about the same but I'm going to persevere for a while and learn how I can get the most out of it. Next time I'll try semi-stand which I've used with success in the past using 510 pyro.

Below an example: Gandolfi Variant 1, Sinaron 180mm, FP4+, the "victim", my grand-daughter Amelie

 

[Peter B]

At Ian's recommendation I recently tried 4 frames in Pyrocat HD: The pre-mixed version by Bellini. I have to admit that the results are encouraging. As a long time user of Perceptol, the pyro is certainly easier to mix and the long shelf life a bonus.

I can't say for sure that I can see a vast improvement over Perceptol and the speed loss is about the same but I'm going to persevere for a while and learn how I can get the most out of it. Next time I'll try semi-stand which I've used with success in the past using 510 pyro.

Below an example: Gandolfi Variant 1, Sinaron 180mm, FP4+, View attachment 6570the "victim", my grand-daughter Amelie

I'm wondering what you used to process this film? I've used 510 Pyro and am considering this Bellini chemistry next, especially as it looks as if it would be extremely easy and economical to use in a Paterson Orbital. Thanks!

 

[vvanwalt]

Hi Peter B

I'm not familiar with the Paterson Orbital. I use the Stearman Press tank. It allows for easy loading of 4 sheets of 4x5. The parts come apart easily for cleaning. If you follow the manufacturer's instructions the tank does not leak. I agitate by 5 slow (ish) twist inversions every minute. Development time, for the only films I use, are 11 minutes for FP4 and 15 minutes HP5 at 20 degrees C. I rate the film at half the box speed and that seems about right for me.

The pre-mixed chemicals, part A and part B are available, also as a kit, if you are in the UK, from Nik and Trick:

Pyrocat-HD Film Developing Set by Nik & Trick & BelliniFoto - Nik & Trick Photo Services

Pyrocat-HD Film Developing Set is the perfect chemistry bundle for your film developing needs. Save 10% on this curated set!

ntphotoworks.com

I'm told that there is no issue using Ilford rapid fixer.

The Bellini mixes are much easier to use than 510 Pyro. A great developer but it is very viscous so more difficult to dispense and it stains anything it touches horribly. In order to retain some marital peace since I don't have a dedicated space in my home and use our utility room, I stopped using this mainly because of the stains which are almost impossible to clean if allowed to dry.

I mix, using a 5ml syringe, one shot, 5ml of part A, 5ml part B and top up to 500ml. The Stearman Press uses 485ml. We're lucky to have very good water so I mix with tap water and don't bother with a last rinse with photo-flow. If you have "bad" water I'd suggest mixing with de-ionised water.

Ian Barber has good instructions here: https://www.pyrocathd.5x4.co.uk/pyrocat-hd-development-times/

Hope this helps

All best, Vincent

 

[Peter B]

Hi Peter B

I'm not familiar with the Paterson Orbital. I use the Stearman Press tank. It allows for easy loading of 4 sheets of 4x5. The parts come apart easily for cleaning. If you follow the manufacturer's instructions the tank does not leak. I agitate by 5 slow (ish) twist inversions every minute. Development time, for the only films I use, are 11 minutes for FP4 and 15 minutes HP5 at 20 degrees C. I rate the film at half the box speed and that seems about right for me.

The pre-mixed chemicals, part A and part B are available, also as a kit, if you are in the UK, from Nik and Trick:

Pyrocat-HD Film Developing Set by Nik & Trick & BelliniFoto - Nik & Trick Photo Services

Pyrocat-HD Film Developing Set is the perfect chemistry bundle for your film developing needs. Save 10% on this curated set!

ntphotoworks.com

I'm told that there is no issue using Ilford rapid fixer.

The Bellini mixes are much easier to use than 510 Pyro. A great developer but it is very viscous so more difficult to dispense and it stains anything it touches horribly. In order to retain some marital peace since I don't have a dedicated space in my home and use our utility room, I stopped using this mainly because of the stains which are almost impossible to clean if allowed to dry.

I mix, using a 5ml syringe, one shot, 5ml of part A, 5ml part B and top up to 500ml. The Stearman Press uses 485ml. We're lucky to have very good water so I mix with tap water and don't bother with a last rinse with photo-flow. If you have "bad" water I'd suggest mixing with de-ionised water.

Ian Barber has good instructions here: https://www.pyrocathd.5x4.co.uk/pyrocat-hd-development-times/

Hope this helps

All best, Vincent

Many thanks for this Vincent, it's very helpful and I will certainly be trying it soon.

The Paterson Orbital is no longer made, but there's a good explanation at the link

Processing Sheet Film In A Paterson Orbital | Roger and Frances

Processing sheet film is a perennial problem, especially for the beginner. The Paterson Orbital tank, designed for processing colour prints, is extremely useful for formats up to 8x10 inches.

www.rogerandfrances.com

Thanks again, Peter