Developing 5x4 Sheet Film In A Tray

Ian-Barber

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There on occasions where I want to develop just a single sheet of 5x4 film and was wondering how difficult it would be to simply developer it in a tray.

I already have some 7x5 trays setup up permanent in my make shift dark room so in theory it would make sense to use those.

What the normal process for developing say just a single sheet in a tray and is there anything I need to be aware of.
 
Ian, I've done this just before buying the Sherman tank and it's quite easy if you have a darkroom.
You need 4 trays and place where you feel comfortable in totally darkness.
As a stopwatch I used my cellphone with a stopwatch app which I dimmed to totally low light, made a small black-paper box where I could see stopwatch running from the top down, there was absolutely no issue developing sheet films.

Having made developer dilution let's say 500ml Rodinal 1+50, a stop bath and fixer. First I prewashed film for about 30 sec. than developed estimated time controlled by stopwatch, stopped it till it felt not slippery and fixed it after this.
All done with fingers and never have been afraid of chemicals.

Well it even was the first time I could feel how stop bath works :)

You should have emulsion side up and move film like you need it, each minute or what you mean is enough.

Of course you see nothing only stop watch running in the "chamber".
I've done this even with 2 sheet films in the tray just controlling it by hand.

It wasn't too bad but the room has to stay dark until are minimum 30 sec. in fixer bath.
 
Yes I had and I also had no issues doing this :), but developing time should not be too short.
Well it's not a bad way except working in totally darkness
 
You can do a whole stack of film in a tray, but the first time you do it, your heart will be in your mouth. For one sheet, you just lift one side or end of the tray every minute or half-minute, in the same rhythm as inverting a tank.
I'm assuming it might be helpful to describe this more fully.
A 5x7 tray is ideal for 5x4. Place it in portrait mode and prop up the far edge so the tray slopes towards you. You place the sheets sideways (landscape) and this will cause the slippery sheets to organise themselves in the tray. Sheets floating at random in a big tray will scratch each other.
With dry hands, take a pile of sheets, emulsion side up (some prefer the other way up, so that the emulsion touches the bottom of the tray.) With thumb and forefinger, take the first sheet and place it flat on the first tray of water. Do not slide it in like paper. The corners will scratch the film underneath if you slide it in. With your little finger, push it under. Don't rush. Now the second sheet. Place flat on top and push under until all the sheets are submerged. You now have one dry hand and one hand with a wet little finger and you cannot go back.
Slide your fingers under the stack and remove the bottom film. Place it flat on top and push it under. Do the same for the whole stack, counting as you go, until you're back at the beginning. You might like to do this twice, depending on how much pre-wetting you prefer. The sheets should now be slippery and have a mind of their own
Now take out the whole slippery stack and feed them into the dev in the same way. Start the timer. Shuffle through for thirty seconds, just as you would agitate a tank for thirty seconds. Repeat the shuffling at the same intervals until the time is up. Now do the same into the stop or plain water. Shuffle twice or thrice. Now into the fix. You must be careful when transferring to stop or fix because the contraction of the emulsion can cause the sheets to stick together, so you must take your time. Shuffle in the fix. After a couple of minutes or so, you can turn on the lights.
Begin with two sheets, then four, then six. Six is the most I can manage comfortably but more is possible.
Some people place some sheets with the notch at the other end, so they can be identified and pulled out at different times, for N+ and N- development, but I've never been brave enough. Some people rotate the whole stack and for end, halfway through in the dev to ensure more even development.
You might find you need to adjust your timer settings slightly, but probably not much.
I'm pretty sure that there are members here who can correct or supplement this brief account. They may well have better methods than me.
 
Yes people have done this very often and with success so why not Ian.
I'm glad to have the Sherman tank, takes only little liquids and save in day light.
 
Not to contradict anything written here, but my experience with developing a single sheet of film in a tray has been less than stellar. I tried every agitation technique that I could muster, but couldn't get totally even development. I will admit that I was developing a "torture test" (evenly exposed smooth surface on Zone VI), but I'd want even development across a clear blue sky in a real negative. Perhaps the uneven development wouldn't even be noticed in a more textured negative.

The most success I ever had with tray development was the shuffle method of a stack of film. For years, I developed both 5x4 and 10x8 this way. If you looked closely, you could still find some anomalies, but it was acceptable. However, nowadays I use other methods for developing all my film--sheet, roll, and 35mm.
 
Many people have found the Paterson Orbital to be useful for a small number of sheets (up to four 5x4, two 7x5 or one 10x8) but you don't agitate in the same way as prints and you do't use the same quantity. I guess the temperature slide-rule would work.

Alan, did you rotate the sheets too, while you shuffled? This is just my curiosity. Single sheets seemed to work for me by being flipped over and back for each agitation but I've never done an excating Zone Vi test.
 
Alan, did you rotate the sheets too, while you shuffled? This is just my curiosity. Single sheets seemed to work for me by being flipped over and back for each agitation but I've never done an excating Zone Vi test.

Yes, after two times through the stack I rotate 90 degrees clockwise (not that the direction matters.) Personally, the shuffle method worked out the best for me when developing in trays. However, after I got the Jobo and Expert Drums over 20 years ago I gave up tray processing. The only other method I found providing quite even development was BTZS tubes; but, then, temperature control can become an issue. I don't use those tubes much anymore, but back when I did I had a custom designed deep tray with a temperature sensing unit to monitor the temp of the water bath, which was hooked up to a computer running some temp control software. Basically, it did the same thing as Zone VI's Compensating Development Timer. The thing I really liked about the software, however, was that I wasn't looked into 20C.

Anyway, kind of a long-winded answer to your question...
 
I'm sure there's a good deal more that could be said.
 
I tried a single sheet in the trays and the process was not as bad as I initially thought.
 
I tried a single sheet in the trays and the process was not as bad as I initially thought.

Hey, if it works for you it works. A lot of folks process film this way without issues; I'm just not one of 'em. ;) Many photographers process their film with tanks/hangers...again, not something that I've been able to master to my satisfaction.
 
I used trays for a long time until I got eczema. (Caused by carelessness with Nitromors, not from photographic chemicals.) I didn't like shuffling in gloves so now I use a Combiplan. The Jobo machine looks very attractive but there are problems of space and expense. Aren't there always?
Many people seem to be put off tray development by accounts of its difficulty, but then find it's much easier than they had imagined. It does take a little practice to get used to the behaviour of stack of wet film and establish a routine. And it needs a good black-out, which isn't possible for everyone.
In general, I'd suggest that if you can produce a poached egg, you will certainly be able to master tray development. In my view, the important skills in photography are mental, not physical. Things may be different in the alternative world. Coating a plate looks very tricky.
There are erroneous accounts of tray development on the web, as always.
 
Hey, if it works for you it works. A lot of folks process film this way without issues; I'm just not one of 'em. ;) Many photographers process their film with tanks/hangers...again, not something that I've been able to master to my satisfaction.

I don't think I shall be using this method for more than a single quick test shot to be honest, I shall stay with my SP-445
 
Fair enough. The 445 seems to work well. I'm not trying to proselytise. My account was intended for the general reader.
 
Hi David,

Great post! I love the look of IR photographs, LF and small format.

I will try some Rolliei 5x4 sheet in a dish... At least this will avoid me having the problems with this very thin film in the Mod54.

Also I DO realise that I am "running before I can walk" here but I have an idea for a pair (or maybe a trypich if I fame together) of images to make a point about seeing different things in the same scene. :rolleyes:

Colour and monochrome feels too obvious a way to express the idea...but maybe colour, IR and mono would work. Will try to post if and when I shoot this in summer (need the angles of the shadows to be right).

Robert
 
Robert,
It sounds like an interesting project.
I know almost nothing about infra-red-film, other than exposing one roll of 35mm when I was in a camera club. My rose picture came first, grain, halos and all. Lucky.
However, I have noticed that Other Forums sometimes carry enquiries about the opacity to IR of bellows. Apparently, some materials transmit IR and fog the neg. I have no direct experience of this.
If you're developing in trays, then your darkroom would need to be infra-red dark too. Again, I must disclaim any direct experience, but it might be worth sacrificing a few slivers of film to do a bit of testing. I'm thinking of indicator lights and suchlike.
I really do hope that I'm being unduly pessimistic and over-cautious.
 
I learned to tray-develop sheet film 60-odd years ago. I was taught that I had to ALWAYS 'shuffle' with the emulsion side DOWN in order to decrease the chances of 'scratches' on the emulsion side when 'shuffling.
I was taught that many years ago using 8x10 inch film. I then learned 4x5 development using Kodak hangers-in-tank method. Having 'enjoyed' the benefit of changing over to 'finger-rotation' BTZS tubes for development in a 'Tupperware tub' after my experience using a Wing-Lynch processor, I would be more then 'hard-put' to revert to either hangers-in-tank or 'tray' development ever again.

Ken
 
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