Blue-sensitive film developing

John Escoe

John Escoe

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Hi all. I purchased some blue-sensitive film and I am very keen to give it a try. However, the information I got in regards of developing are rather poor. I only have Rodinal developer at the moment. Any idea about dilution and time required? Any other developer more suitable for it? Any thoughts will really help. Thanks.
 
Usually a devloper like PQ Universal is used, essentially a print developer at 1+9 and times are short 2-3 minutes. You'll have to do some tests or Google search for someone using this film.

Ian
 
Ian Grant said:
Usually a devloper like PQ Universal is used, essentially a print developer at 1+9 and times are short 2-3 minutes. You'll have to do some tests or Google search for someone using this film.

Ian
Click to expand...
PQ is not a paper developer?
 
Ilford PQ Uninversal is a developer for Papers and Films, you can use it at 1+19 or 1+29 with normal films and it gives fine grain but Ilford stopped recommending it for films except Ortho Plus some years ago.

As the films is Kodak S)-192 it's designed for machine processing, the only reference I can find quickly is someone stand developing in RO9 (Rodinal) at 1:150 for 1 hour.

Ian
 
Last edited:
Ian Grant said:
Ilford PQ Uninversal is a developer for Papers and Films, you can use it at 1+19 or 1+29 with normal films and it gives fine grain but Ilford stopped recommending it for films except Ortho Plus some years ago.

As the films is Kodak S)-192 it's designed for machine processing, the only reference I can find quickly is someone stand developing in RO9 (Rodinal) at 1:150 for 1 hour.

Ian
Click to expand...
Thank you Ian.
I actually asked the seller and he said the same as you did. Also he suggested another way, which is current method, he’s developing it in trays under red lights in print developer (PQ) with minimal agitation, pulling it from the developer when it looks dense enough.
I will buy some PQ and give it a try both methods and see how it goes
 
I've just developed 4 sheets in Rodinal 1:120 stand for 1 hour (invert for 30 s at the start and 10s at 30 mins) -- I went a little higher than 1:150 to reduce the risk of running out of activity as the SP445 doesn't have a lot of volume.
They're still drying (I pulled them out of the tank about 15 mins ago) but they look reasonable.
It's a very thin film so I think that as with Rollei IR400 using the MOD54 would not be a very good idea.
 
James, a way to get round the Rollei IR popping off the holder is to back it with another thicker sheet. You know the deliberate mistake films we produce which are totally useless for printing! I use some old FP4 sheets, put on the non emulsion side, then both into the holder. Once the IR film has been developed and fixed, the blank sheet removed and the IR washed. This gets rid of the Anti halation coating which has been protected by the FP4
Cheers
Diz
 
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