Advice needed on movements (Tilt/Shift/Rise)

lharby

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Hey

I don't normally dabble with camera movements much, but I have a project where I want to photograph a small rectangular object and use a little perspective correction.

The object when looked at from the front and above looks like this:


rectangle.png
The goal is to make it look like an axonometric drawing (so it will be shot at an angle). Much like this:

axonometric-drawing.jpeg
To start out, I just put the object head on and then tried to do some perspective correction much like looking at railway lines.

My understanding is that all I need to do is have the rear standard rise. This is the maximum I can do on the Sinar.

camera.jpg

I wasn't seeing much correction as far as I could tell (I had to adjust the movement and then change the angle of the tripod) but I am wondering as I am working at such small scale is it a different ballpark to standing in front of a large building at distance. Do I need more extreme movements when working at a small scale?

(Also this was a pretty short lens 120mm, I do have longer ones, so I realise that should give me a different effect, so maybe I can try that).

Any pointers?
 
You can use indirect rise/fall by tilting the camera as in the picture. Do remember to return both the front and rear standards vertical and parallel by using base tilt.
 
I would probably suggest a slightly longer lens, and keep the camera back vertical while using a lot of fall at the front (indirect fall if needed). See these recent posts by this guy for example:

 
My gut feeling is you need to use shift and swings, as well as rise & fall. To start with you will need the standards vertical as Marty says.

Essential think of correcting converging verticals, except sideways the long right-hand face of the building in your example. A little movement goes a long way with shorter lenses, but a wide lens also exaggerates perspective.

A 210mm or 240mm lens would be better.

Ian
 
Scroll through the instagram post above, as it shows the camera side on.
Alternatively the book "The view camera" by Harvey Sharman has worked example of each type of perspective correction possible. Abe Books has a few s/h
 
I’ve just done a quick and dirty trial. Assuming that the subject is rectangular with parallel sides and your diagram is a perspective view, you need to adjust the rear standard (with the film plane) so it is parallel with the object plane. Quite a lot of adjustment on my little setup. It’s the same principle as avoiding converging verticals in a building.
 
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