Multiple - Fragmented Exposures

[Camerashy]

So each fractional exposure creates + over exposure?
If I made eight exposures I would have to reduce my time by -3 stops?

 

[Ian Grant]

So each fractional exposure creates + over exposure?
If I made eight exposures I would have to reduce my time by -3 stops?

No, because of reciprocity failure, more like -2½ stops.

Ian

 

[Camerashy]

No, because of reciprocity failure, more like -2½ stops.

Ian

Good idea to make the point of not forgetting reciprocity failure. Not sure if the attached method allows for reciprocity. Do you add the reciprocity first, ex.?
Metered exposure 2secs
Add 2s for reciprocity = 4s
4s 1 exposure
2s 2 exposures
1s 4 exp.
1/2s 8 exp
1/4s 16 exp.
how much would I reduce the exposure?
I found this

 

[Ian Grant]

Technically the attached is incorrect because it doesn't allow for reciprocity, but with 8 exposures and ½ a stop is not so critical, it may be close to a third..

I remember making this shot in the 1990s underground in a Manganese mine in North Wales.



We had torches and 4 hammerhead flash units. I had pre-focused my Wista & 65mm SA in daylight, and was shooting at f16 or f22.

For his image the area was painted with the 4 flash units, all set at full power, multiple flashes from each, I heard the others close their shutters way to early. I was the only person to get an image.

Somewhere I have a table for the extra exposure needed with multiple plash exposures, it was referring to multiple flash exposures to allow LF lenses to be stopped down mire in studio work. I remember it recommend 5 flashes when the calculation would be 4. it's exactly the sane with multiple daylight exposures.

Ian

 

[Soulstar89]

Good idea to make the point of not forgetting reciprocity failure. Not sure if the attached method allows for reciprocity. Do you add the reciprocity first, ex.?
Metered exposure 2secs
Add 2s for reciprocity = 4s
4s 1 exposure
2s 2 exposures
1s 4 exp.
1/2s 8 exp
1/4s 16 exp.
how much would I reduce the exposure?
I found this

When I went to Bristol (feb for martin parrs exhibition I shot a whole roll on my mamiya 7ii double exposure. What I found is if you have the sky in the scene the negative builds up density to the point where it starts losing detail. This happens I learnt when you layer one frame 16 times or above, I mostly do 16 and 32.

Last month or in July I did some tests near me shooting a roll like; normal, x2,x4,x8x16,x32. I learnt that the developer plays a big roll and also you have to reduce development when shooting 16 and above layers.

Once I’ve finished cooking I’ll transfer my pictures here to give a reference from my computer. I’m on phone atm.

 

[Soulstar89]

Don't know why but its saying files are to big. ill try on the weekend.

 

[Tim Holmes]

I made a couple of experiments last week to see how best to make these type of image with the work I make, as I’d had it in my mind to do it with this subject for 6 months or so. Initially I was thinking about making them at dusk and using off camera flash, to give more light and freeze the movement of people and flags in the image. However this is a structure I am doing some heritage professional work on for the local council at the moment and wanted an image for the front page of a report, so thought I may as well try things out.

This is 5x7 FP4 with a 210mm Symmar-S 5.6 lens on a Sinar P, TTB Metol dev.

The first was 6 or 7 shots at 1/60th at F45. (both the minimum aperture and maximum shutter speed of the Sinar copal shutter) metered for an exposure of 1/15th
The second was 10 shots same exposure and this kind of looses the effect I was after, although these are quick scans and I look forward to a little more play in the darkroom.

I’ve wondered about using a red filter for an extra few stops to play with.
Thoughts and suggestions welcome and making better notes already on my list.

 

[Camerashy]

I made a couple of experiments last week to see how best to make these type of image with the work I make, as I’d had it in my mind to do it with this subject for 6 months or so. Initially I was thinking about making them at dusk and using off camera flash, to give more light and freeze the movement of people and flags in the image. However this is a structure I am doing some heritage professional work on for the local council at the moment and wanted an image for the front page of a report, so thought I may as well try things out.

This is 5x7 FP4 with a 210mm Symmar-S 5.6 lens on a Sinar P, TTB Metol dev.

The first was 6 or 7 shots at 1/60th at F45. (both the minimum aperture and maximum shutter speed of the Sinar copal shutter) metered for an exposure of 1/15th
The second was 10 shots same exposure and this kind of looses the effect I was after, although these are quick scans and I look forward to a little more play in the darkroom.

I’ve wondered about using a red filter for an extra few stops to play with.
Thoughts and suggestions welcome and making better notes already on my list.

View attachment 6700

View attachment 6699

I like both but I would do a square crop and get rid of the post on the left.

 

[Ian Grant]

I made a couple of experiments last week to see how best to make these type of image with the work I make, as I’d had it in my mind to do it with this subject for 6 months or so. Initially I was thinking about making them at dusk and using off camera flash, to give more light and freeze the movement of people and flags in the image. However this is a structure I am doing some heritage professional work on for the local council at the moment and wanted an image for the front page of a report, so thought I may as well try things out.

This is 5x7 FP4 with a 210mm Symmar-S 5.6 lens on a Sinar P, TTB Metol dev.

The first was 6 or 7 shots at 1/60th at F45. (both the minimum aperture and maximum shutter speed of the Sinar copal shutter) metered for an exposure of 1/15th
The second was 10 shots same exposure and this kind of looses the effect I was after, although these are quick scans and I look forward to a little more play in the darkroom.

I’ve wondered about using a red filter for an extra few stops to play with.
Thoughts and suggestions welcome and making better notes already on my list.

View attachment 6700

View attachment 6699

I prefer the first. Your use of multiple exposures is quite different to mine, I think with these fewer will be stronger.

Ian

 

[Soulstar89]

so I got help on getting the pictures to upload on here. Recents Tests. Handheld.

X16 layers on one frame (cropped to 1.1.55) Foma 100 ei50 HC110 and rodinal mix.



x32 layer FP4 ei64 no crop Id11 1+1


Test of same frame but shooting normal, x2, x4,x8,x16,x32. no edit just used ians DBW scanning software to scan negative and then convert to positive. FP4 EI64 developed in id11 1+1. What i learnt from this test is the density builds up once you reach 16 layers. you either reduce development or cut back some layers. I spot metered to place the darkest of the canal gate in zone 3.












Sorry for delay.

 

[Soulstar89]

I made a couple of experiments last week to see how best to make these type of image with the work I make, as I’d had it in my mind to do it with this subject for 6 months or so. Initially I was thinking about making them at dusk and using off camera flash, to give more light and freeze the movement of people and flags in the image. However this is a structure I am doing some heritage professional work on for the local council at the moment and wanted an image for the front page of a report, so thought I may as well try things out.

This is 5x7 FP4 with a 210mm Symmar-S 5.6 lens on a Sinar P, TTB Metol dev.

The first was 6 or 7 shots at 1/60th at F45. (both the minimum aperture and maximum shutter speed of the Sinar copal shutter) metered for an exposure of 1/15th
The second was 10 shots same exposure and this kind of looses the effect I was after, although these are quick scans and I look forward to a little more play in the darkroom.

I’ve wondered about using a red filter for an extra few stops to play with.
Thoughts and suggestions welcome and making better notes already on my list.

View attachment 6700

View attachment 6699

Nice. i have found when you use a tripod you make a structure bone sharp but people move so slow shutters work. Ill dig for a example of mine. Do you want to see people in the frame? Distance also play a great part to this effect.

 

[MartyNL]

I never thought I'd ever say this in my lifetime but "I've made an app."

Based on this thread, I tried to workout some way for me to manage the process of multiple or fragmented exposures on one piece of film.
Here is a simplified overview of my process.

Step 1 - How many exposures do I want to make?
Anywhere from 2-64

Step 2 - Do I want all of the exposures to be the same OR do I want the exposures to be weighted differently?
Fully customisable

Step 3 - How do I measure and calculate exposure?
Both phone and handheld metering

Step 4 - How do I time and keep track of the exposures?
Built-in timer and exposure counter

Here are some screenshots showing the functionalities for both identical exposures as weighted/customised exposures.
Disclaimer:
No I'm not a developer and I've never built an app before!
It's still work in progress and has never been put to use.

 

[Soulstar89]

I never thought I'd ever say this in my lifetime but "I've made an app."

Based on this thread, I tried to workout some way for me to manage the process of multiple or fragmented exposures on one piece of film.
Here is a simplified overview of my process.

Step 1 - How many exposures do I want to make?
Anywhere from 2-64

Step 2 - Do I want all of the exposures to be the same OR do I want the exposures to be weighted differently?
Fully customisable

Step 3 - How do I measure and calculate exposure?
Both phone and handheld metering

Step 4 - How do I time and keep track of the exposures?
Built-in timer and exposure counter

Here are some screenshots showing the functionalities for both identical exposures as weighted/customised exposures.
Disclaimer:
No I'm not a developer and I've never built an app before!
It's still work in progress and has never been put to use.

Amazing Marty. This is such a great idea. The build of density when you layer 16+ is a factor to consider as I’m learning. This photography is something I love doing so would be willing to help out if you would like.