- Joined
- Dec 30, 2021
- Messages
- 98
Hi All
My kids bought me some 510 Pyro and some Eco fix so I could give it a go, I usually use Rodinal, D23 or Ilfotec HC. I loaded up a roll of HP5 in my Olympus OM1 and took around 6 shots, then I removed these from the camera in the darkroom and developed with the Custom time from the Zone Imaging PDF, 13 min 45sec.
With the rest of the roll, I followed John Blackmore's instructions on how to find my personal exposure index.
In the darkroom, I printed 2 of the shots at Grade 2 and was delighted with the results, I also printed off the 10 prints at each Zone again following John Blackmore's instructions. Looking at the Zone 1, 2 and 3 prints these looked as the book described at full box speed, ie, faint texture at Z2 and full texture at Z3, all well and good.
However my Zone 10 print was pale grey with texture and looked more like Zone 8.
With the remainder of the roll, I re did the test but added 20% more time to the development, 16.30 min as apposed to the recommended 13.45 min.
Again in the dark room I printed of Z 1, Z2, Z3 and Z 10 prints, the Zone 10 now looked as it should, almost paper white, while the Zone 1 now looks like Z3 almost black with full texture.
So my question is..... is the staining in the highlights from the 510 Pyro " moving " my Z10 to Z8 or have I made a mistake in my testing somewhere.
As a side note, John Blake recommends photographing a towel and focusing on it so the texture shows, this is what I did, but others, like John Finch recommend keeping the photographs out of focus as it's thought the texture can influence the results.
I'm only doing this through curiosity, as I said earlier, my initial results with 510 Pyro gave me great results, but I like trying things out, so any suggestions would be much appreciated.
Andrew
My kids bought me some 510 Pyro and some Eco fix so I could give it a go, I usually use Rodinal, D23 or Ilfotec HC. I loaded up a roll of HP5 in my Olympus OM1 and took around 6 shots, then I removed these from the camera in the darkroom and developed with the Custom time from the Zone Imaging PDF, 13 min 45sec.
With the rest of the roll, I followed John Blackmore's instructions on how to find my personal exposure index.
In the darkroom, I printed 2 of the shots at Grade 2 and was delighted with the results, I also printed off the 10 prints at each Zone again following John Blackmore's instructions. Looking at the Zone 1, 2 and 3 prints these looked as the book described at full box speed, ie, faint texture at Z2 and full texture at Z3, all well and good.
However my Zone 10 print was pale grey with texture and looked more like Zone 8.
With the remainder of the roll, I re did the test but added 20% more time to the development, 16.30 min as apposed to the recommended 13.45 min.
Again in the dark room I printed of Z 1, Z2, Z3 and Z 10 prints, the Zone 10 now looked as it should, almost paper white, while the Zone 1 now looks like Z3 almost black with full texture.
So my question is..... is the staining in the highlights from the 510 Pyro " moving " my Z10 to Z8 or have I made a mistake in my testing somewhere.
As a side note, John Blake recommends photographing a towel and focusing on it so the texture shows, this is what I did, but others, like John Finch recommend keeping the photographs out of focus as it's thought the texture can influence the results.
I'm only doing this through curiosity, as I said earlier, my initial results with 510 Pyro gave me great results, but I like trying things out, so any suggestions would be much appreciated.
Andrew
