Developing 5x4 Sheet Film In A Tray

Ken,
Very curious and interesting that two directly opposite methods should be taught.
Clearly, your method was successful, so there's no doubting that it does work. I was warned about the danger of dragging the emulsion across the base of the tray, which seemed reasonable. Perhaps it doesn't matter after all. The most dangerous thing might be the film itself, as the corners are very sharp.
My first experience of developing anything was large sheets of X-ray film in deep tanks on hangers. This was for quality control of steel castings and welded pressure vessels. It worked perfectly well but when I tried hangers for 5x4 film, I seemed to get the topmost edge a little more developed than the rest. Clumsy technique, perhaps?
A footnote: I looked up AA, which seems to be traditional on LF forums. He uses two trays of developer, placed flat on racks in a water bath and his shuffle consist of moving the stack from one to the other. He warns against sharp corners and fingernails. He does say "emulsion up." but I think we've established that this is a matter of personal preference. No need to follow AA blindly, or we'd all be wearing one of those curious dangly things instead of a tie. Some members of this forum don't even have a beard!
He also suggests having a tank of running cold water to cool the fingers between shuffles, but this would have been in California.
 
I learned to tray-develop sheet film 60-odd years ago. I was taught that I had to ALWAYS 'shuffle' with the emulsion side DOWN in order to decrease the chances of 'scratches' on the emulsion side when 'shuffling.
I was taught that many years ago using 8x10 inch film. I then learned 4x5 development using Kodak hangers-in-tank method. Having 'enjoyed' the benefit of changing over to 'finger-rotation' BTZS tubes for development in a 'Tupperware tub' after my experience using a Wing-Lynch processor, I would be more then 'hard-put' to revert to either hangers-in-tank or 'tray' development ever again.

Ken

Interesting... I learned to develop sheet film nearly 40 years ago with the emulsion side UP using the shuffle method. I developed both 5x4 and 10x8 film that way until 1995 when I bought a Jobo CPP-2. After a short initial learning curve, I never scratched a single sheet. I still own a set of 10x8 BTZS tubes and use them occasionally because...well...they're just fun! :D I, also, have a set of 10x8 tanks & hangers that I use occasionally for minimal agitation techniques with Pyrocat-HD. But, I haven't used the tanks in a while since I started with Steve Sherman's EMA development style. The problem for me with any development technique is temperature control because my indoor temps during the summer months get pretty warm. Therefore, I generally use the Jobo during the hot spell as I can refrigerate water to do the initial setup of the tempering bath, and then I float a block of ice in the upper trough to help the Jobo maintain proper temp. Ah, the things we all go through for our art! ;)
 
For what it's worth I picked up a bundle of gear for £15 including some perfect 5x7 trays...

Now just to buy a dark-tent and some film... Oh, and shoot some images! ;)

Robert
 
Were you planning to do the developing inside the tent?
 
Hi David,

No, was going to make a light-tight room in our small bathroom but thanks for your concern... :eek: or have you tried it and found it works?? :cool:

I got help at the Aire Street Darkroom, John Arnison loaded 8 sheets of HP5 into DDS for me in about 3 minutes! He has need doing it "for decades".

I am lucky that Jim Edge threw in his MOD54 as he pulled out of 5x4 completely : I will process the sheets in that but need the tent to get the sheets into the MOD54 and Patterson tank.

Robert
 
Robert, don't you have a walk-in cupboard where you can load your film holders and developing tanks? I have a darkroom but it's not completely light tight. Ok for paper, but not film. So I load my Paterson tank and load film into film holders in a cupboard under the stairs. Go on, tell me you live in a bungalow!

Alan
 
I have the Calumet tent. It’s ok for loading 4x5 holders, but not ideal. I got mine in a 20% off sale that Calumet used to do at Bank Holidays. It’s much easier to use a darkened space as Alan suggests. The MOD54 is a great device, but I find it very tricky to load in the tent. If you go down that road, you would be best working in two stages. First, unload the exposed film into a suitable container. Then remove the holders, and work with the MOD and it’s tank. There isn’t enough room to have the holders and the tank etc in at the same time. Harrison make a bigger changing tent, but it’s far more expensive.
Alex


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Robert,
It was the coincidence of "perfect 5x7 trays" and a dark tent in the same posting that made me wonder. It sounds like a recipe for disaster to me, but remember, they didn't laugh at the Titanic, either.
I second Alex's advice. I have the Calumet boingy tent too. Not perfect but it works.
Take the film out of the holders within the tent and put the sheets, all the same say round and all the same way up, into a lightproof box. (You will soon have an empty film box to use). Take your hands and the darkslides out, leaving the box inside. Too long inside the tent will make even the driest hands sweaty. Now arrange everything nicely inside, zip up and dive in again. Elsewhere on the web is good advice on how to load the Mod, but I can tell you nothing.
 
Hi All,

Good advice all, I DO live in a bungalow! The small bathroom has a single window and I planned to cut some polystyrene and make an overlapping border of light proof cloth..

Thick polystyrene will push tight into the window space if pushed home, cheap enough to try out.

Only thing is I am spending leisure time on DIY, not LF photography!

Robert
 
I have discovered a new tip on tray development. Don't pick up your cat, no matter how charming, just before you develop your film.
 
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