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Magnificent beast. May I ask two questions?
Firstly, what colour are the bellows?
Secondly, the lens in image 7676 has a quadrant scale in both f-stops and millimetres. How is this used?
 
That's a heck of a stand.
If I didn't know better I'd say it was the vertical column of a pillar drill.
 
Magnificent beast. May I ask two questions?
Firstly, what colour are the bellows?
Secondly, the lens in image 7676 has a quadrant scale in both f-stops and millimetres. How is this used?
i use the f range, i do not use the mm range.
the lens is a Cooke Series IX 460mm f10 apo process lens, designed for precise colour separations using filters, as much as i know.
 

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Magnificent beast. May I ask two questions?
Firstly, what colour are the bellows?
Secondly, the lens in image 7676 has a quadrant scale in both f-stops and millimetres. How is this used?
sorry, the other question, they are blue, from custom bellows. i have done several cameras, my wife chose blue so they are all blue, it is my feeble attempt at winning buy in
 

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The stand looks like the kind of thing that was common in advertising studios in days gone by.

As this is a process lens, I’m speculating that it would be used for creating half-tone separations. Could it be that these needed the absolute size of the aperture for correct rendering of the half-tone dots?
 
i am not 100% sure - from my experience, studying graphic design and being trained as a journeyman lithographer in the mid 80’s, halftones were rendered using overlaid screens in the back of the camera. Separations were done with filters over the lens.
Separations could also be done as continuous tone then screened when burning plates.
Worth looking up!
 
20241007_131519.jpg


So after not being able to find any film or plate backs for my Bergheil 9x12 I had a friend print some 4x5 adapters into which I am able to load not only 4x5 film sheet holders but also some Linhof 9x12 plate and film holders.

The screws do go all the way in, I just left them out to test the ground glass I made.

It is not a perfect solution but it works and that is what matters. I'll find a better solution for the elastic bands.

Here is a crop from my first picture with it. Shot on Tri-X 320 with a bit of guessing at focus as I forgot my loupe. The lens is the Heliar 15cm F/4.5

Rawtenstall Market crop.jpg
 
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To me this is how 3d printing comes in to its own for doing this kind of thing. I had a Pentacon 6 mount lens that the shaft and pin had worn that much it was not stopping the lens down when shooting. I asked about getting it repaired, but the only company that would even look at it was Arax in Ukraine. This was a no go to expensive option.
So I took the lens apart myself and measured then made the part ( after a few attempts } and now its working perfectly.
 
Just picked up my first 5x4. Wista 45 vx with a 150mm 5.6 Fujinon lens. The filter thread is 55mm so from my research it’s the latest version which has multi coatings. It has a dent in filter thread but I learnt about a tool to remove it.
 

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Just picked up my first 5x4. Wista 45 vx with a 150mm 5.6 Fujinon lens. The filter thread is 55mm so from my research it’s the latest version which has multi coatings. It has a dent in filter thread but I learnt about a tool to remove it.
That is a work of art.
And no, I'm not jealous, well, a little.
 
That is a work of art.
And no, I'm not jealous, well, a little.
Thanks bud,

I find it super similar to using my mamiya rz67 which is a good thing. It’s practically new. My neighbor never really used it. Came it the box as well as 6x7 roll back and a load of other bits. As I have a complete rz67 kit i will off load the 6x7 film back as neglecting the RZ67 is a no no lol.

Sometimes I wish my tools was beat up so I’m not so precious about it lol
 
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Thanks bud,

I find it super similar to using my mamiya rz67 which is a good thing. It’s practically new. My neighbor never really used it. Came it the box as well as 6x7 roll back and a load of other bits. As I have a complete rz67 kit i will off load the 6x7 film back as neglecting the RZ67 is a no no lol.

Sometimes I wish my tools was beat up so I’m not so precious about it lol
I couldn't comprehend bothering to use an RZ67 if I owned that.
Sorry if you love your RZ but, really? you'd use that in preference to your Wista?

Just my emotions running high there. No offence meant.
 
I couldn't comprehend bothering to use an RZ67 if I owned that.
Sorry if you love your RZ but, really? you'd use that in preference to your Wista?

Just my emotions running high there. No offence meant.
No offence taken at all.

I think they would have completely different uses. The wista will be more In-depth plans shots where the rz67 will be for portraits where I don’t need camera movements.

I’ll be frank I’m very much getting on with the wista. I LOVE my 65mm lens on my rz67. I would have to get a bags bellow for a similar focal length on the wista. I’ve never been a “take 1000 shots” person so the wista suits me. It would take me ages to finish 36 frames on my 36mm camera lol. Issue is that atm I’m trying to learn fomapan and compared to my tried and tested hP5 &fp4, It’s a tad challenging not going to lie.

They are completely different in useage to me. Who knows what a year with the wista will take me. I just need to learn the film as frankly my negs look like I can’t read light. If I wasn’t someone to wrote all my ratios then I would have been fooled lol.
 
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Issue is that atm I’m trying to learn fomapan and compared to my tried and tested hP5 &fp4, It’s a tad challenging not going to lie.

They are completely different in useage to me. Who knows what a year with the wista will take me. I just need to learn the film as frankly my negs look like I can’t read light. If I wasn’t someone to wrote all my ratios then I would have been fooled lol.
Out of interest, are you rating your Fomapan at half box speed? That's what I've found works very well.
 
Out of interest, are you rating your Fomapan at half box speed? That's what I've found works very well.
Hey nas,

I wanted to develop my recent two sheets before I responded.

I rated both at EI50. One with strobes, the other shot with continuous lighting (same exact framing of scene). The strobe frame came out fine. The continuous one where I had to use the reciprocity timer app as Meter gave 3secs, was so much more under exposed than strobe frame.

I done some digging and found a chart for fomapan 100. The times given on the reciprocity app was off drastically! This was the issue all along. Light bulb moment for me.
 
@Soulstar89

I also found that out the hard way when I shot two sheets at a castle with Fomapan on a dark day with a long lense and full bellows,
 
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