Round Spots On Fresh Developed Negatives

Discussion in 'Talk About Developing Film' started by Ian-Barber, Dec 16, 2016.

  1. Ian-Barber

    Ian-Barber Administrator Staff Member

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    Ive started to see round spots appearing on freshly developed negatives.

    Initially, I thought it was poor agitation or even air bubbles but I have just developed another test negative and they have appeared again.

    This time I let the mixed developer stand for some time before adding it to the tank, I also rapped the paterson tank fairly hard on the counter top on its edge to release any bubbles after each 1 minute agitation and also at the beginning.

    I accurately measured out 2ml of Photoflo instead of guessing the amount but they still appeared.

    Any thoughts ?

    I have just developed another test negative, only this time I have replaced the Stop Bath with water, this negative is still drying.

    Screen Shot 2016-12-16 at 21.52.57.jpg
     
  2. Mathieu Bauwens

    Mathieu Bauwens Active Member

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    When do you use the Photoflo in your process ?

    Do you presoaked your film ?

    What film is it, Fomapan ?

    Do you use tap water as a final wash, isn't it too calcarous ?
     
  3. Alan Jones

    Alan Jones New Member

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    Do these marks appear on the actual negative Ian, by this I mean have you checked the scanner glass. I have never seen anything like this, it
    looks like some kind of staining or grease?
    Regards,
    Alan
     
  4. Ian-Barber

    Ian-Barber Administrator Staff Member

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  5. Ian-Barber

    Ian-Barber Administrator Staff Member

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    Yes Alan, I can see them under the loupe on the lightbox
     
  6. Stephen Batey

    Stephen Batey Well-Known Member

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    Are they marks sitting on the film, or part of the image? Do they show up if you view obliquely?
     
  7. Diz

    Diz Member

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    I have come across these spots before on Foma 100. It was suggested to me it could be contamination from wetting agent building up in the developing tank.(in my case, a combiplan) So a cheap plastic box was purchased to use as a final wash tank. The water I use is harvested rain water. (Our mains water is not fit for human consumption yet, so is full of chemicals,stinks of bleached mud and fizzes alot) This seemed to work for a while. But every now and then it reared its head again. I am using more FP4/HP5 these days and have not yet come across the same yet.
    Cheers
    Diz
     
  8. Ian-Barber

    Ian-Barber Administrator Staff Member

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    Update:
    I exposed 2 more negatives today, just scanned one of them and its very clean, no spots.

    Not quite sure if what I did has helped but this is what I did.
    1. Thoroughly washed the dev tank, mod54 out in hot water
    2. less PhotoFlo than normally used
    3. Pre soaked the film for five minutes
    I will scan the remaining one tomorrow and see what that one is like
     
  9. KenS

    KenS Active Member

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    Since these dark spots do not 'show' in the areas OTHER than the bottom of the box my thoughts turn to the 'marks' are IN the material of which the floor/bottom from which it is manufactured, and it may be attributed to the 'colour' of the spots being better 'recorded' on the film rather than what you might suggest being 'bubbles' in the developer.

    Ken
     
  10. KenS

    KenS Active Member

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    Ian...
    OOPS.... I was about 'finishing' my response as yours 'arrived". Methinks now that they be caused by un-dissolved chemical detrious (fine chemical particles?) in the developer.

    Ken
     
    Last edited: Dec 17, 2016
  11. Ian-Barber

    Ian-Barber Administrator Staff Member

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    having spend 1/2 century under the dark cloth ken, what's your opinion on Pre soaking film ?
     
  12. KenS

    KenS Active Member

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    I tried it many years ago but got 'out of the habit' when I found out it did not really add any 'value' but added the time of an 'extra' step.

    Since my 'retirement' and having come to the opinion that developing sheet film with BTZS tubes was somewhat 'easier' (I could process with the lights on)... and... I 'feel' that I am probable getting the more consistently 'even' development than either hangers or tray development... (but that is MY own opinion)... but I 'believe' 7+ years of 'mechanical' rotary development (when at the Research Centre) in a Wing Lynch... which was used for processing all the B/W formats... and all the Ektachrome positive films. It did not take long to 'eliminate' the slight variability of results from two photographers (and the sometimes temp. summer staff) to be eliminated. If did not already have the BTZS tubes... (and I think Wing- Lynch are now out of business due to the 'loss' of Ektachrome)... BTZS would be my first 'new' $$ investment for my sheet film processsing. Having said that... Now that I have 'survived' the years without the BTZS 'machine' it would be hard to convince me that the 'machine' was a necessity.

    I would certainly recommend BTZS tube processing for anyone. I may take up a little more time to 'get ready' but (in MY personal experience), I AM getting the even development 'batch-to-batch I think both my 4x5 and 8x10 sheet my film 'deserves'.

    Ken.

    PS. I you don't already have BTZS tubes... you can make your own tubes out of black ABS tubing from the hardware store... but getting them to 'float/balance' during rotation without serious bobbing' during rotation that 'might' interfere with the development 'evenness' is somewhat awkward. I experienced that a few times... but it was eliminated by the 'eveness' of the BTZS tubes. If did not already have a set, that is where my next pension cheque would be going.
     
  13. KenS

    KenS Active Member

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    Post Scriptum,

    Allan.... Just in case you were curious as to why I was not out with my camera yesterday, I was 'forbidden to do so' by "She Who Must Be Obeyed'.

    She was convinced that it might it be a wee bit too 'chilly'. The temperature (with the 'Wind Chill' factored in) was -41°C .. Yes a minus 41° Celcius .... which meant the battery that 'powers' the shutter on my 240mm Rodenstock would not be in the best of condition to activate the shutter... a real 'bummer'.

    So I attached my back to the couch.... Gir lying on the floor beside me 'insisting' the my 'other hand' scratched either his belly or behind his ears... while I just and 'potato-ed out' with a library book.

    Ken

    :cool:
     
  14. Diz

    Diz Member

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    Undissolved chemical particles would make sense in my case. I use Rodinal with Fomapan. I will filter it next Dev session.
    Cheers
    Diz
     
  15. KenS

    KenS Active Member

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    Diz...
    Have you tried 'warming it up' (not HOT) a little to get any precipitate back into solution?

    I have not used Rodinal in my own darkroom for some 20 (or so) years.... But I believe I remember it as a liquid 'concentrate' in a bottle.. but don't remember ever having problems when using it. While it as a good developer, it was not the least expensive... but availability was real 'spotty' in the days before 'online' ordering.... and, since I was satisfied with either D76 or HC110 they became my 'usual'. I then 'played around' with a few 'staining' developers but... after having 'found' Pyrocatechin HD developer, got to 'know' it well enough, it has become my 'go-to' developer of choice.

    There are no other recent 'commercial' film developers under the bench other than some 15 (=/-) year-old D76 and HC110 that I 'inherited' on the passing of a friend a couple of years ago.

    Ken
     
  16. Diz

    Diz Member

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    Thanks Ken, will give that a go next time it goes 'crusty':). My usual developer is ID11, but like the Rodinal/foma results. I have just picked up some Moersch Tanol to try out after seeing some superb print from it.
    Cheers
    Diz
     

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