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- Aug 6, 2016
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When looking at a negative, how can you tell if it's possibly over-exposed /under-developed
What are the key things you are looking for
What are the key things you are looking for
*Mr Sherman's system, which we've discussed elsewhere on the forum, is essentially to overexpose and under-develop, so it can be used creatively.
but when placing a Zone VIII value right at the edge (I've done this with snow scenes) it really doesn't take much "over-exposure" and that value is gone! Controlling of the shoulder end of the curve can be mitigated through the use of staining developers, but that's a whole 'nutter discussion.
Alan,
It wasn't a sly reference to anyone on this forum. On the other, larger, mostly US LF forum, I have come across people who seem to be making that claim. It seems unlikely.
Ian, not sure what discussion you'd like me to pursue, but take this image for example:
View attachment 1522
IMO, it's the delicate high values of whatever coating is on that brick wall and the sunlight portion of the upper-wall that make this image for me. Had any of those gleaming high values tipped over the shoulder of the film curve and became featureless white, the image would be ruined. You'll have to trust me on this one, but a silver print of this image (I have one in my portfolio) just BEAMS light!
From my understanding on how you like your photographs to look, I am presuming those bright areas on the wall are roughly Zone VIII. Did you use a staining developer to control them ?
With digital printing, pure white tends to leave paper with no ink on it, which can be quite obvious if it catches a side light. I always avoid it for that reasonDavid, for me personally, I never have any high value go all the way to paper white. I don't even allow this in digital prints. To my eye, it's always a jarring transition.