Yes I've made Kallitypes, the process itself is quite easy but the harder part is having negatives of the right contrast. I used Kodak Direct duplicating film (I forget the exact name/code but it's long discontinued) to make enlarged inter-negatives (it was a positive material) but you can make digital inter-negatives instead.
Done well and Platinum toned they look identical to Platinum prints, I was in touch with a photographer in Istanbul who was doing this, it's a lot cheaper than Platinum printing.
I went on a two day Albumen printing course at Dimbola House, Isle of Wight (the Julia Margaret Cameron museum), a bout 4 or 5 years ago and it was great fun, I came back with some nice prints - but off glass negatives from their collection. They didn't go into the sort of negatives you need.
A good source of information is Ed Buffalo's website Unblinkingeye. There's a section on making duplicate negatives I think (by reversal processing).
No you need higher contrast negatives, staining negatives work well for alternative processes because the dye stain is more effective at blocking UV and the higher end of the visible light spectrum. There should be details on Unblinking eye or the Pyrocat website about processing negatives for dual use conventional printing/scanning and for alternative processes. It's one reason Sandy King came up with Pyrocat HD, the variants came much later.
Most people use QTR to make digital inter-negatives, there's profiles for alternative printing. My Platinum inter-negatives have a very deep green colour as this is more effective with UV light sources.
That being said, I just downloaded an article about making Anthotypes, a printing-out process using direct sunlight I have not even heard about for many years. I just have to head off to the
'garden outlet' ASAP, and find a variety of flower seeds that will provide the colourful petals from which you make the emulsion.... or perhaps head for the grocery store for some oranges.. the rind of which can be used after 'blending' to a pulp, and 'filtered' to provide the basic 'emulsion to spread onto a suitable paper and placed under a B/W negative and exposed under my UV light source.
There are many variables. That make it difficult to get a predicted outcome.
Here are the two most horrible ones.
First the chemicals
The Ferric oxalate is different from the ferric oxalate you use for pt/pd in the kalitype version there should not contain oxalic-acid residu. For pt/pd there should a amount of oxalic-acid in. If the ferric oxalate is not right you get a reaction with the silver nitrate and fogs the solution. Makes the sensitivity lower... And you get get a hard to remove stain...
Took me a long time to find and solve out this problem.
If you use a paper that is treated with anti acid stuff. Then you get big problems with stain that if its attached to the paper you stuck with it.
Solution give all your papers a bath with Sulfamine acid to get rid off the additives.
Result is a clean print.
I have to dig in my notes for the right amount of sulfamine acid and time to wash the paper. Its already more than 2 year of my last kalitype.