Alan is right current Foma RO9 is now the modern Rodinal formula, the only thing to watch is keep your temperature control tight between each bath and also washing, Foma films are a touch softer than Ilford or Kodak and R09 contains some free Hydroxide which increases emulsion softness that's why you nee to take care, But you really need to have tight control with any film to get the highest quality results.
HC110 is not the best of Kodak's developers, and even Kodak's own comparison charts acknowledge that, but it's convent, economic and has a very long shelf life, and slight differences in grain size will only be noticed with quite large enlargements. If I was to use Fomapan 200 with HC110 I'd go for one of the more dilute options, I've not used the developer for about 30 years so don't ask for more specific advice advice on Dilution and Development times
I've use a lot of 120 and some 5x4 Fomapan 200 in Xtolt and Pyrocat HD, I shoot at 100EI and have always had excellent results it's a very nice film but don't over develop - it needs about 75% development time compared to other films to tame it, as do other Foma films but it's worth the effort.
I used HP3 as a teenager and also HP4 (a bit of a dog) but HP5 was way ahead, I rarely use fast films for general work and only really used HP5 push processed until XP1 was released which gave higher quality results in terms of grain, tonality, etc.
Now I use quite a lot of HP5+ for my 5x4 work, often at box speed (and hand held), Fomapan 200 isn't a substitute as I shoot it at half box sped so two stops slower than HP5 to get comparable results.
I used Agfa films for many years, crossing over to Tmax when needed, then almost totally Ilford when abroad and also Fomapan which was cheap and available in bulk. But then I also use Forte and EFKE films and have a few boxes left all that matter is I've found my optimum EI & Dev time for my films, and much simpler than you might think
Ian