Discussion in 'Talk About Developing Film' started by LEO, Apr 29, 2017.
not for everyone but i really like it
Hi and HNY to all,
I bought myself a Sinar f2, thought I'd take some portraits on some new old film I picked up at a market HP5+400 Ilford.
I thought I'd share these two of my daughter one shot at F32 @125th with 3 flash heads normal exposure normal Dev.
then in my excitement that she was so tired and wasn't moving, I checked focus and shot a second quickly .... to my dismay I had left the Apature at 5.6 on my 210mm.
I also purchased some Rodinal from foma and had tested dev at a mix of 1-25. 10mis @ 22deg
I still wanted to see what was on the overexposed Neg so decided to dilute to 1-50 half my dev time @ 1-25 mix and took 30% off that ;-) very technical I KNOW! I got to 7m45 secs?
I was very happy with results of both in sharpness and grain in the diluted overexposed the tonality was fantastic.
hope it helps someone out ;-)
one of my stepdad similar lighting normal exp normal dev
LoVed bUt nOt ForGotteN
-2 exp + 2 dev Ilford HP5 very dull day don't get many in Sydney
Lovely portrait! If you don't mind a minor nit-pick... I would like to see his entire hands in the frame. Just my opinion, though.
@Alan9940 Nit-pick away, it is what it is! a moment captured a moment stored.... I also agree by the way!
due to this being my first few years in LF I love to make mistakes this is what this thread is all about for me,
so I can look at them and have them in my mind for future shoots ;-)
And a beautiful moment it is! Sometimes we just have to react quickly before the gesture passes and can't consider proper framing, etc. Totally understand that... Anyway, a real keeper IMO!
GiAnTs iN mY GarDeN
125th F32 N+N Dev flash lighting IlfordHP5
Seems very grainy for 5x4. I use HP5 and have 24x20" prints from HP5 negatives which have no visible grain.
Be aware that modern Rodinal contains free hydroxide which can soften emulsions and poor temperature control can lead to surface artefacts also known as micro-reticulation this doesn't affect the grain in the emulsion itself but when you print or scan causes increases apparent graininess.
thanks for the comments/info Think I'm going to go back to d76 foma I tried Rodinal for less grain,
I do like the grafic nature it adds to the image in some respects.
Hey Leo, these are fantastic!
May I ask your light placement for these? I can see where your key and rim lights are but where was the third? Just fill or a background light? Are you using D1's out of interest?
thanks @Damnfinecoffee think this was my set up ;-) all profoto b1 and d1s
beauty as key
grid on kicker
soft white umbrella on fill
few mods with fill cards and cutters + homemade reflectors polly boards and the wardrobe has a big mirror handy bounce ... hope this helps
think I shot on the 180 F5.6
Thanks for the detailed response Leo.
Nice to see your setup, gotta love those B1's.
I use D1's for (commercial) location work and life would be so much easier without the mains cable!
Did you meter the scene manually or just pre-vis with a digital camera?
That negative fill works great on the left, just enough for a little outline.
its all metered manually,
I have a polaroid back if I'm uncertain, I shoot film for the magic, not for the instant results ;-)
I enjoy the process of image making+ the unknown the anticipation and wonder are what got me hooked many years ago.
digital took all that away for me, it also brought a great deal too but that's another thread!
I shot my daughter with a little more fill and without the black bounce + white wall
my stepdad I wanted a little less fill more overhead light but not so that it dropped into total darkness
Black backdrop black Polly as table +black bounce to reduce bounce.
both very similar setups with slight adjustments to suit pre-visualized shot.
I generally use my modeling lights if possible to view light quality + quantity then meter
I don't take notes on light setups unless I need to set up again in the same manner, even then if it's not the same person the light may not be complimentary so I generally keep the same style and tweak to suit .... more fun that way ;-)
in regards to the heads, the B1s are my go to heads commercially especially in small room setups like this as it hot in Australia the LEDs don't throw any heat ;-)
They do play havoc with your meter tho! because they are LEDs they flicker if you don't have the model light on 100% your meter will not work "just gives EU" I use a Sekonic L-758D, took me a while to work that one out!
hope that helps
To try and use up the R09 I decided to have a play with stand development, my first attempt failed miserably;-)
6ml R09 in 1400ml water
agitation first min
then 5 inversions @ 2 10 20 mins then stop at
30mins fix as usual.
my second attempt I doubled the R09 to 12ml
agitation first min
then 5 inversions @ 2 10 20 mins then stop at 30mins fix as usual.
this was the best image from the batch
GiAnTs In mY GaRdeN
ArUm LiLLy 01
Leo, when using the L758, are you spot metering the scene or using incident metering
Thirty minutes fix seems a very long time indeed. Is that correct or a slip of the keyboard?
And 1400ml seems a lot of liquid for one film.
stop dev at 30 mins @Ian-Barber , jobo tank fill 1400ml
spot metering ... why do you ask am I missing something Ian?
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