Depends a lot on how you plan to use it. I think that by the time you've factored in postage & VAT, that would be quite expensive for what it is.
That said, I did get my spot meter from the US, because at the time the only ones I could see in the UK were the types that use mercury batteries.
They were originally shot for a TIPF weekly challenge on the theme of intentional camera movement (I used the second one). And yes the idea was to mimic cheesy 1970's sci-fi special effects.
The extreme non-reciprocity of Fomapan made life a lot easier, the metered exposure near the middle of...
Both shot using Intrepid 5x4 Mk 3.5 (i.e. Mk3 with Mk4 base) and Intrepid pinhole on Fomapan 100, with the effective focal length varying from about 100mm to a bit over 200.
6 ½ min exposure, with a half turn of the focus every 15s going 100 → 200
8 min exposure with a half turn every 20s...
Since the film was developed by a lab, I don't know how it was done.
I'll keep an eye for any problems with the scanner, the scans were run at max res (6400 dpi) and then binned down by a factor 3 in VueScan, which is what I normally do for 6×9 and up.
It was quite hazy, I did apply the RawTherapee Haze removal, and to my eyes it only looks blue behind the line of the church and lock--but then my colour vision isn't the best which is why I mostly do B&W.
I hadn't noticed the segmentation (actually there are 5 bars as there's a narrow strip at...
Day's Lock and Little Wittenham Church from Round Clump, Good Friday.
And just for fun, the weir at the full scan resolution.
Intrepid 5x4 with Schneider Symmar 150mm, 1/4s at f/45. Kodak Ektar in DaYi 6x12 roll film back.
Fern unfolding, Bowdown Woods, W. Berks.
Intrepid 5x4, Ilford HP5+ @800, Schneider Symmar 150mm, f/16, 1/15. Developed Ilfotec HC 1:15 for 5:00 @ 20°C.
Using front standard tilt to bring most of the stem into focus as it was leaning quite strongly towards me.
My 240mm Symmar (which is my longest lens) is where I first noticed this as it came with a Linhof (branded) board for a Compur #2 shutter, and then the other day while browsing 210mm lenses I saw a similar set up there.
Logically if the off-centring is to allow more downward movement of the lens...
I've noticed that a lot of the longer lenses (180mm and above) that are in Linhof lens boards have boards with the shutter hole below centre. So I was wondering why. I more often need to raise the front standard rather than lowering it, and it makes aligning to a neutral position trickier.
Is is possible to get clip on magnifying glasses, which save a lot of hassle -- they're mainly sold for model makers and the like. I use a 4x pair which seem OK. (There's also good heritage -- that is the solution adopted by Ansel Adams!)
That didn't really seem a major problem on my Autographic No 3 Kodak. More of a challenge was the advance as the window for 118 is at the edge of the film for 120.
For that I found a reasonable approximation using an empty backing paper:
Align the alignment arrow at the start of the gate and...
I think we hit that region once, and only overnight, while I was in New Mexico (-26°F as I recall), it broke my thermometer as the alcohol in it froze. This was about 9300 feet (2900 m) above sea level.
My Intrepid 5x4, this one is a Mk3. On location, shot with a film camera at the opposite end of the size range (an Olympus Pen-D half frame).
For the result: https://www.5x4.co.uk/threads/cliff-and-bee-workings.994/
Just one extra thought on light meters. With secondhand meters do check the batteries needed as many of the older spot meters use the dreaded mercury cells. I found a Soligor that uses a 9V (PP9) battery that is readily available.